Monthly Archives: December 2009


Permalink to Taipei In A Wrap

Taipei In A Wrap

In Asia, everything is cute or compact. What’s cute is usually compact as well: miniature toys, toy poodles, girls… but what’s compact is not always cute. The room I stayed in at my distant uncle’s over the summer was a Taipei standard. Oh, an 8 x 10′ box, perhaps? The mattress was smaller than a twin and hugged the ground without a box spring. My baby pink, Hello Kitty sheets were much appreciated (since they have two sons and no daughter, but for someone who’s room is black & blue back home, I did not find them that cute). This time, I stayed at my distant aunt’s and pretty much slept in the 6 x 10′ storage room with a sleeping bag “blanket”…but I didn’t mind. Though this trip still paled in comparison with my summer adventures, the last two weeks I spent in Taipei were fucking fantastic.

 

Besides spending quality time alone in the library and Eslite bookstores (think B&N or Borders with 6 stories), I also…

  • Met up with my old colleagues in the Shida or Shilin nightmarkets numerous times, where we did stuff like…play jenga
  • Ate brunch with Tina and the gal behind Hungry In Taipei (who took Jon and me to another place for lunch two days later)
  • Sat in a kitschy, empty bar with Andrew and Jon before we decided to grab Taiwan Beers from 7-11 and face the awkward
  • Went night-shooting with Jon and hit up Wu Fen Pu afterwards (before getting lost on the way back)
  • Spent an innocent night in a park on seesaws and seahorses with four boys (after hitting up 2046), where we discussed everything from HKU’s new-found fascination with “Shen-pong” (Andrew Shen’s beer pong) and Andrew Lo’s dad hating on MMIAF/MDIAF

…and more. Una and I also talked to Wunan Book Publishing three times, once during a formal meeting at their office where we were surrounded by inquisitive folk firing away question after question in pure Mandarin. I bust out my Chinglish to the best of my abilities. Since I’m back, we are somehow going to manage creating this picture book via The Internetz only. This will be a true testament to web 3.0′s capabilities (seeing that Teresa and I—both internet people—can’t get this other book together within a year).

 

With that said, it still feels great to be back. Saturday, my dad and I cruised down Calaveras Rd. towards Sunol, and Coldplay’s “Viva la Vida” came on the radio. We turned the volume up and rolled down the windows.

 

child grabs a bubble at the Shilin nightmarket (too bad the photo's blurry)
child grabs a bubble at the Shilin nightmarket (it was dark, and thus the blur)


Permalink to China: The Verdict Is In

China: The Verdict Is In

The Good

  • Public transportation is efficient and very affordable. Buses cost 2 yuan (RMB) each trip (~28¢) and run frequently, while the metro costs 2-9 yuan each way (28¢ – $1.28), depending on the distance. The D train from Hangzhou to Shanghai was 54 yuan (<$8), and another (slower) train from Shanghai back to Xiaoshan was 26 yuan (<$4). A 30min taxi ride from the airport to hotel was 85 yuan (~$12).
  • Construction is happening everywhere! Infrastructure is improving and high rises are popping up all over the place. (If fact, there is extremely loud construction happening right outside of our hotel room window…) Architecture firms with projects in Asia should be thriving.
  • The West Lake in Hangzhou is beautiful, as with a lot of the new architecture in Shanghai. If I were a real painter or photographer, I’d move to Hangzhou and paint the four seasons repeatedly (pictures to come at the end of this post).

The Bad

  • Living costs are not that low. Rent in downtown Shanghai is equally absurd (and comparable to San Francisco). Food can be cheap (street vendors, hole-in-the-walls, supermarkets, convenience stores, etc.), unless you eat at the New World Plaza, where a dinner set at any one restaurant was 30-50 USD. Ridics. Shopping mall items cost about the same…maybe even more if they’re American brands.
  • Public transportation during rush hour is pure chaos. You are always standing with someone literally spooning you from behind…while you offend the person in front of you. People will push and shove hard without saying “excuse me”.
  • It is f!cking cold in December (but apparently a “warm winter” this year). At night outside, I wore two long-sleeved thermals underneath a knit sweater, underneath a hooded sweatshirt, beneath a wool coat. Raising one arm to hold on to the handrail was pretty difficult.

The Ugly

  • People are rude as hell. While I was in line buying tickets at the Hangzhou train station (which btw has no English signs or translations of any sort…), a lady from the end of the line marched up to the front and started yelling at the group of girls in front of me for taking “too long” (maybe 5min max). She stormed back after her final words, “討厭”! Later on, I asked the young gal managing a baggage check booth how much it would cost per luggage. She mumbled something like “ten dollars” without even looking up, so I asked her kindly, “Ten?” and she just glared at me then went back to her reading. While sitting in the waiting room, the lady a few chairs to my left cracked nuts loudly and threw all the shells and all of her nasty trash on the floor nonchalantly. On the train, people talked loudly on their cell phones or to each other, played card games with rowdy arguments and bouts of laughter, slurped cup noodles and smoked inside (in your face)—courtesy is apparently a foreign concept. Pedestrians also never have the right of way, and I’ve been cursed at quite a few times for simply crossing a bike lane or a crosswalk during a green light.
  • The socioeconomic gap between the rich and the poor is extreme and highly unsettling. At the train stations, I saw all sorts of people…people from the countryside carrying sacks on sticks, merchants with giant boxes of who knows what, students with backpacks, businessmen with suitcases, you name it. A beggar with her child stopped in front of each person in the waiting room and placed her cup on our shoes as she mumbled, “Food for baby…” On the train, a woman with burnt hands led a blind man through the halls as they begged for money (before scuttling off right before the train pulled away from the station). At the high end shopping malls and plazas, people walked around with Burberry scarves, LV handbags, Chanel glasses, and so on. At these places, I also saw a lot of foreigners. At major tourist attractions, street vendors particularly targeted (more like harassed) people who didn’t look Asian (not me) and people with very conspicuous cameras (me).
  • Political propaganda still exists. A man was selling collectible Mao stamps on the train and went on and on with a microphone or megaphone about Mao’s contributions, how that related to the train we were on, how Taiwan will “return” to China one day and hopefully buy Mao stamps too…I mean wtf?! The stamps sold fast too. On TV, I kept seeing highly skewed news reporting about Taiwan’s local elections and political disputes (and how “ridiculous” the DPP was being…)—Fox news aiint nothing in comparison. The Great Firewall is equally ridiculous. I haven’t checked Facebook or Tumblr in five days!

The verdict: with all of that said and done, I don’t see myself working in China, so ignore all of my indecisive China posts since the beginning of October. Conferences, freelance projects, design competitions—we’re all on again? (Please?!) As Ben said, “It’s good that I came to visit and stopped being indecisive.” (btw Ben, your blog is blocked.)

Now back to the good stuff…with pictures this time!

Hangzhou: a leisurely respite.

a tea village
a tea village

some serious greenery
some serious greenery

orange leaves in December
orange leaves in December

boats on West Lake
boats on West Lake

an endless stroll
an endless stroll

Shanghai: a serious clash of architecture.

I mean a serious clash of architecture, right?!
I meant what I meant by “a serious clash”.

more clashing (but beautiful) architecture
and more…

this is not considered
this is not considered “a lot of people”…

more street scenes...
more street scenes…

the mascot dude w/old architecture (which used to be someone's garden/yard...)
the mascot dude w/old architecture (which used to be someone’s garden/yard…)

YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE BIRTHPLACE OF XIAO LONG BAO'S...
YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE BIRTHPLACE OF XIAO LONG BAO’S…

mom's in line!!
Mom’s in line!

people eating xiao long bao's on the steps
people eating xiao long bao’s on the steps/sidewalk

My cousin takes a bite!
My cousin takes a bite! Mmm…

distractions
distractions

The famous skyline!
The famous skyline!

...and then there's this
…and then there’s this.

new vs. old...
new vs. old

massive construction projects...
massive construction projects

I'm on a boat!
I’m on a boat!

more construction...
more construction…

iconic towers
iconic towers

malls with lots of bling
malls with lots of bling

holiday spirit...
holiday spirit

so cheesy yet so pretty...
so cheesy yet so pretty…

Perhaps I’ll miss China…just a tiny bit.


Permalink to Sloppy Firsts in China

Sloppy Firsts in China

My social media capabilities are incredibly limited seeing that I can’t check my Twitter, Posterous, Tumblr, Facebook or Friendfeed. (I’m not sure if this is all censorship or half a connection problem, since the wifi bars just so happen to go down whenever I check those sites.) I can, however, access all of my self-hosted blogs, upload to Flickr, and Posterous-tweet via email (pseudo-hack win!).

This isn’t exactly my first time in China, but I would hardly consider Kunming, Dali, and Lijiang (in Yunnan Province) “cities” when Shanghai has a population of 20 million. This is definitely my first time in a Chinese city without cobblestone-paved roads, horse-drawn carriages, and yaks. In fact, I see exactly what I expected to see: grey skyscrapers, construction cranes, and more skyscrapers in the making.

In half a day, my mom and I went from Kaohsiung to Taoyuan to Hangzhou, with plans to go to Shanghai tomorrow. On the plane ride here, the gentleman sitting on our left gave us a few tips: speak as little as possible (as folks will judge by our Taiwanese accent) and only take metered taxis (to prevent overcharges). I figured I’d just be a starving mute for a few days. (Prior tips included eating as little as possible and buying as little as possible…to prevent getting diarrhea and fake merchandise.)

Being the obnoxious extrovert that she is, my mom ended up talking to our taxi driver in her wannabe-Chinese accent (“zhuo guai-r” instead of “zhuo zhuan” (left turn), naw mean?), which was possibly more insulting than reading the names of streets out loud for suspecting that the driver was going to drive in circles (and gyp us of a few extra bucks). He didn’t. (He also didn’t know the location of our hotel and had to call for directions while driving on the divider.) I was only concerned about the rackety door with loose hinges and the mysterious noises coming from his engine. I feared that if he stepped on the break, the door would come loose and I’d be flung into the middle of the freeway as to-be roadkill—and that would’ve been the end of my journey.

Well as with most beginnings, I come into contact with a taxi driver with an interesting story to hear or tell. In Denver, our Ethiopian driver told us about how he moved there to support his sister in college. In San Francisco, our turbaned driver joined in our conversation about Salesforce. In Brunei, our driver kept telling us about what he knew about our Obama versus his sultan. In Malaysia, our driver was stopped mid-freeway past midnight after driving 160km/hr while we had our passports checked. In Thailand, I’ve sat in back of a tuk-tuk driver who couldn’t read Thai or mutter a word of English (and needed a third party translator at the wrong location). When we first arrived in Taiwan, our driver shared his near-death experiences falling asleep at the wheel and driving down the day after a typhoon (then proceeded to stuff five business cards in my hands to pass on for him). I’ve also got the “Where you from? China? Korea?…wait you from California?! You no look American!” quite a few times.

Being voluntarily mute this time, there was no Babel-like banter, but I did make a few observations. This Chinese driver spoke Shanghainese to a lady on the phone, which meant he probably wasn’t a Hangzhou native (but being the giant tourist trap that Hangzhou is, he probably had more customers here). He couldn’t read the address and directions my mom wrote down (which were in traditional Chinese, but most people can guestimate between traditional and simplified). He looked relatively young, drove quite recklessly, and had no malintentions of overcharging us or taking us someplace else. He also had no intentions of talking to us or even glancing at the rear view mirror until the very end when he wanted his money, but he wasn’t unlikeable either.

China is possibly the least-personable country I’ve ever visited, but then again, I’ve only met one taxi driver behind a plexiglass barrier so far. (There was no bellboy at the Sheraton to bring our luggage in for us, nor did the reception lady smile much.) It has only been an uneventful first day though, and I haven’t ingested any chemically treated, meat-flavored cardboard yet, so my hopes are still high! I promise to rave on and on about Shanghai’s spectacular architecture, cuisine, and shopping as soon as I figure out how to get there via which train at what time from which stop for how much…and who to contact so I don’t stay mute forever.

view from our hotel room
view from our hotel room

view at night
view at night

Every 30 minutes or so, a train passes by directly beneath us. I feel like I’m traveling indefinitely…on and on with no set destination. Every 30 minutes, my auditory senses tell me so.

Addendum

9:08 PM me: (btw my internet sucks so i might sign on and off unknowingly)
9:11 PM leslie.forman: mine does that too
#GFW
i think
9:12 PM me: gfw…?
leslie.forman: great fire wall
me: ahhhaha
gotcha
leslie.forman: oh, and to get on twitter try Hahlo 3.1 or Hootsuite
i use Hahlo
9:14 PM me: ah ok

Permalink to Princess Complexes

Princess Complexes

8am Monday morning, I left the sunny pseudo-countryside for Kaohsiung, murky-grey industrial galore. Once again, I dragged my luggage through the front doors of my grandpa’s dilapidated high-rise and took the sketch elevator up. 6th floor is the office, 9th floor is the old condo in a sun-bleached shade of mustard yellow.

The 6th floor has upgraded from cable modem to wifi, but my great-aunt still uses a typewriter for God knows what and wears glasses with a pearl chain draped behind her ears. (She also happens to be on Facebook, so no judgments held.)

At noon, my grandpa, mom, and I head upstairs for lunch—dumplings yesterday, potstickers and carrot cake today (Monday we ate out). At 4:30 sharp, we head back to the “mansion” in the outskirts of the city, on top of a hill behind gates, away from the air and sound pollution. (I fidget nervously on my computer as time refuses to move, eat dinner, fidget some more, shower, and sleep.)

Every morning, my step-grandma prepares us homemade yogurt with generous chunks of fruit and nuts along with a buttered piece of 2” toast. This morning, I also had ginseng tea to combat my returning flu symptoms. My grandpa spends a good hour in the garden watering the exotic plants while my step-grandma tends to the flowerpots outside of our window. Every withering flower, weed, overgrown leaf (perhaps aphid as well)—gets plucked. 9:30 sharp, we leave the mansion for the high-rise, and life commences as usual.

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